White Paradise: Uyuni

For english please look below! ­čĹç­čĆ╗

San Pedro’dan Uyuni’ye her g├╝n sabah 03:00’te otob├╝s kalk─▒yor. ├ľ─člen vakitlerinde Uyuni’ye varm─▒┼č oluyorsunuz. Tabii ki s─▒n─▒rda ├žok beklemezseniz. Ben a┼č─▒r─▒ beklemedim. Ama s─▒n─▒rdaki amcalar nedense bana 30 g├╝n kal─▒┼č vermeyi uygun g├Ârd├╝ler. Ho┼č, daha fazla kalma niyetinde de de─čildim zaten.

Otob├╝ste iki ┼×ilili ve bir ─░talyan ile tan─▒┼čt─▒m. Uyuni’de kendime ├Ânceden yer ayarlamam─▒┼čt─▒m. ─░talyan ├žocu─čun rezervasyonu vard─▒ ama onun hostelinde hem yer yoktu hem pahal─▒yd─▒. Zaten Uyuni dedi─čim yer k├Ây. Yani d├╝┼č├╝n├╝nce bizim k├Ây daha geli┼čmi┼č olabilir. ­čśé

Bolivya hakk─▒nda genel bilgi geliyor. Bolivya s─▒n─▒rlar─▒ndan girdi─činiz anda beklentilerinizi olduk├ža d├╝┼č├╝rmeniz gerekiyor. G├╝ney Amerika’n─▒n en fakir ├╝lkelerinden ├ž├╝nk├╝. Hayliyle ne yollar d├╝zg├╝n, ne sular s├╝rekli ak─▒yor, ne de d├╝zg├╝n ├žal─▒┼čan bir internet var. Bolivya’n─▒n en g├╝zel taraf─▒ a┼č─▒r─▒ ucuz. Ama yeme i├žme k├╝lt├╝r├╝ inan─▒lmaz de─či┼čik. Yani ucuz olsa da hepsini yiyemiyorsunuz maalesef. Bu yokluk halinde ┼×ilili arkada┼člarla kendimize kalacak bir yer bulduk.

Daha sonras─▒nda tur acentesine gittik. Uyuni i├žin turlar ikiye ayr─▒l─▒yor. Tek g├╝nl├╝k turlar sadece tuz g├Âl├╝n├╝ ziyaret ediyor. Laguna Colorada gibi atraksiyonlar─▒n oldu─ču ├ž├Âl├╝ de kapsayan 3 g├╝nl├╝k tur alman─▒z da m├╝mk├╝n. Ben art─▒k Atacama’dan sonra ├ž├Âle ve mineral yap─▒lara doydu─čum i├žin tek g├╝nl├╝k tur almak istiyordum. Di─čer ┼×ilili arkada┼člar da bana dahil oldu. ─░talyan arkada┼č ise 3 g├╝nl├╝k tur ald─▒. Tek g├╝nl├╝k turun fiyat─▒ 135 Bolivianos. ├ť├ž g├╝nl├╝k ise yakla┼č─▒k ├╝├ž kat─▒. Tek g├╝nl├╝k turda ├Â─čle yeme─činiz de dahil.

Bolivya’da hemen fark edece─činiz ┼čey her yerde koka yapra─č─▒ ve ├╝r├╝nleri sat─▒l─▒yor. Koka, kokainin ham maddesi. Fakat kokain olduk├ža kimyasal kat─▒lm─▒┼č versiyonu. Koka yapra─č─▒n─▒ yal─▒n t├╝ketti─činizde kafa yapm─▒yor yani. Ama mideyi rahatlat─▒p size enerji veriyor. Ayr─▒ca y├╝ksekli─čin yaratt─▒─č─▒ s─▒k─▒nt─▒lara da iyi geliyor. Koka ise Bolivya’n─▒n milli bitkisi. Dolay─▒s─▒yla herkesin elinde bir po┼čet, i├žinden al─▒p al─▒p koka ├ži─čniyorlar.

Turumuzu ald─▒ktan sonra terminale do─čru yola d├╝┼čt├╝k. Terminal diyorsam aldanmay─▒n. ├ľyle terminal de─čil. Koca bir cadde var Uyuni’de. Yan yana pespai otob├╝s firmalar─▒. Buraya terminal diyorlar. Herkes kendi di─čer dura─č─▒ i├žin otob├╝s bileti sormaya ba┼člad─▒. Bolivya’da asla size s├Âylenen ilk fiyata tamam demeyin. Pazarl─▒k serbest. 150 pesodan ba┼člayan bilet fiyat─▒n─▒ 120’ye ├žok rahat ├žekiyorsunuz. Ben de tek tek t├╝m firmalara sordum. Hepsiyle pazarl─▒k ettim. En sonunda en ucuz fiyat─▒ verenden biletimi ald─▒m. Kapal─▒├žar┼č─▒ ├žocu─čuyuz biz. Yer miyiz? Asla.

Uyuni’de iki cadde var. Biri dedi─čim terminal. Di─čeri de acentelerin ve lokantalar─▒n oldu─ču cadde. T├╝m turistler orada yemek yiyor, tur al─▒yor. Kimi gezginler de bu caddeye ├žad─▒r atm─▒┼č. Geceyi burada ge├žiriyorlard─▒. Burada beraber Valle De La Luna turu yapt─▒─č─▒m frans─▒z grupla kar┼č─▒la┼čt─▒m yine. Zaten ┼čimdiye kadar tan─▒┼čt─▒klar─▒mla ikinci kez kar┼č─▒la┼čmazsam olmuyor. Ak┼čam─▒m─▒z─▒ bu caddede ge├žirdikten sonra otele uyumaya gittik. Oteli hi├ž anlatm─▒yorum. Nem kokusu hala burnumda ahaha. Standartlar─▒ d├╝┼č├╝r├╝n derken baya─č─▒ ciddiydim. Du┼č ald─▒─č─▒m banyoyu g├Ârseniz a─člard─▒n─▒z. ­čśé

Ertesi sabah kalk─▒p yine ayn─▒ caddede kahvalt─▒m─▒z─▒ yapt─▒k. Ve turumuz ba┼člad─▒.

Tur 7 ki┼čilik jeeplerden olu┼čuyor. ├ľncelikle tren mezarl─▒─č─▒na u─čruyorsunuz. Burada trenlerin tepesinde a┼ča─č─▒s─▒nda foto─čraf ├žektirip tuz g├Âl├╝nden ├Ânceki bir k├Âye u─čramak i├žin yola devam ediyorsunuz. K├Âyde hediyelik e┼čyalar pazar─▒ var. Maksat turistlerden para alal─▒m. ­čśé Daha sonra tuz g├Âl├╝ne do─čru yola ├ž─▒k─▒yorsunuz.

─░lk dura─č─▒n─▒z tuz otelinin oldu─ču alana varmak. Burada ├Â─čle yeme─čini yiyorsunuz. Tuz otelinin hemen yan─▒nda ├╝lke bayraklar─▒n─▒n oldu─ču alan var. Burada T├╝rk bayra─č─▒n─▒n oldu─čunu duymu┼čtum asl─▒nda. Ama ben gitti─čimde hi├žbiri yoktu. San─▒yorum r├╝zgardan falan y─▒rt─▒ld─▒ ve kald─▒rd─▒lar. Havaalan─▒nda beni u─čurlarken ablamlar elime T├╝rk bayra─č─▒ tutu┼čturmu┼čtu. “Al yan─▒nda dursun, laz─▒m olur” diye eklemi┼člerdi. O bayra─č─▒n nasibi de Uyuni’de dalgalanmak olacakm─▒┼č. ├ç─▒kartt─▒m bayra─č─▒m─▒, ast─▒m di─čerlerinin yan─▒na. Pozumu da verdim. Hazal reyiz! ­čç╣­čçĚ

├ľ─čle yemeklerini isterken iki tanesi vejeteryan olacak demi┼čtik. Her zamanki gibi unutulmu┼č o. Yar─▒m saat vejeteryan yemek ayarlas─▒nlar diye bekledim. Neyse yeme─čimizi yedik ve tuz g├Âl├╝n├╝n derinliklerine ilerledik. Benim gitti─čim zaman ya─čmur oldu─ču i├žin tuz g├Âl├╝ bile─če kadar su doluydu. O y├╝zden tur ile bu su birikintisine do─čru yol ald─▒k. Salar de Uyuni alan olarak o kadar geni┼č ki burada perspektif alg─▒n─▒z yok oluyor. Yer g├Âkle birle┼čiyor. Yerde su oldu─ču i├žin de ayna etkisi yap─▒yor. Yerde beyaz tuz, g├Âkte beyaz bulutlar. Bir de ├╝st├╝ne ayna etkisi olunca i┼čte bu inan─▒lmaz kareler ortaya ├ž─▒k─▒yor. Ortas─▒nda dururken de u├žsuz bucak beyazl─▒─č─▒n i├žinde gibisiniz. Allah─▒m ├Âld├╝m de haberim mi yok diye tela┼član─▒yorsunuz. ­čśé

Buradaki foto─čraf seanslar─▒m─▒zdan sonra tuz oteline geri d├Ând├╝k. Asl─▒nda niyetimiz Uyuni’ye d├Ânmekti. ├ç├╝nk├╝ hava patlamak ├╝zereydi. Ya─čmur geliyordu. Ama gruptaki ─░srailli ├žift g├╝nbat─▒m─▒na kalmak istediler. Gruptaki herkes gitmek istiyor. Bana “Sen sorsana, kalmak istiyorlar m─▒” dedi gruptakiler. Dedim: “Neden ben?” El cevap: “Ya zaten sizin ├╝lkece aran─▒z bozuk. Senden nefret etseler de bir ┼čey olmaz.” “A┼č─▒r─▒ mant─▒kl─▒ cevap, te┼čekk├╝rler!” dedim. Neyse sordum ama kalmak istediklerini s├Âylediler. Mecbur bekledik. Hava kapal─▒ oldu─ču i├žin hi├žbir ┼čey g├Âremedik ve Uyuni’ye geri d├Ând├╝k.

Tura gitmeden zaten ├žantam─▒ haz─▒rlay─▒p acenteye b─▒rakm─▒┼čt─▒m. D├Ân├╝nce ak┼čam yeme─či yiyip ├žantam─▒ ald─▒m ve La Paz otob├╝s├╝ne atlad─▒m. Otob├╝s ┼čehre sabah 05:00’te var─▒yor. Her ┼čeyi planlayan ben bu sefer milletin akl─▒na uydum. Otel rezervasyonu falan yapmad─▒m. Gidince ayarlar─▒m dedim. Demez olayd─▒m…

From San Pedro to Uyuni, there is a bus everyday at 03:00 am. If you take this bus, you arrive to Uyuni in the afternoon. Of course if you don’t wait so much on the border. For chance, I didn’t wait so much. But I don’t know why, they gave me 30 days to stay in Bolivia. Anyway I wasn’t planning to stay longer.

I met with two Chileans and one Italian on the bus. I hadn’t found a place to stay in Uyuni before arriving. Italian guy already had a reservation. But there wasn’t another place for us and it was quite expensive. Uyuni is just a big village. I mean maybe my village can be bigger than Uyuni. So you don’t have million options to stay.

General information for Bolivia. You have to lower your expectations when you pass the Bolivian border. It is one of the poorest country in South America. So it doesn’t have highways. You cannot find water in the hostels always. Internet almost doesn’t exist there. The best part of Bolivia is that it’s super cheap. But the food culture is different. So it doesn’t mean if it’s cheap, you can eat unlimited. With all these conditions, we found a place to stay.

Later we went to the tour agency. Tours for Uyuni are seperated two. One is just for visiting Saltflat of Uyuni in one day. The other one is 3 days trip which includes visiting all the attractions of Uyuni. After Atacama, I was done with mineral attractions. So I just wanted to visit Salt Flat Of Uyuni. The chilean guys joined me, too. Italian bought 3 days trip. One day tour is 135 BLP. 3 days trip’s price is like triple.

First thing that will take your attention is that in Bolivia you’ll see coca leaves everywhere. Yes, cocaine is made of coca. But it is added a lot of chemical things. If you juat chew the coca leaves, it doesn’t make you high. It has a effect like coffee only. Also they say it is good for the high altitude. So coca is like national plant in Bolivia. Everybody carry a bag full of coca.

After buying our tours, we went to the bus terminal. I am saying terminal. But it is just a street actually. The bus companies’ offices are on that street. They call this street terminal. We started to ask ticket wherever we want to go. Never say yes to the first price that you’re offered in Bolivia. Just negotiate. If you try hard, you can get ypur ticket very cheap. So I asked everyone. I found the cheapest one and bought my ticket for La Paz.

After terminal, the biggest street of Uyuni is where the agencies are. On this street, there are also restaurants. So all the tourist is just hanging there. Some of the travellers set up tent on this street and sleep there. I came across the french guys that I did Valle De La Luna Tour in Atacama. It is so normal! I always come across to the travelers that I had met in another country. It makes me feel like the world is a small village.

After spending the night in this street, we went to sleep. I don’t mention about where I stay. I even don’t want to remember where I took a shower. It was just not a good hostel. Anyway in Bolivia there is no something good generally.

The other day, we woke up and went to the meeting point of tour. So we got in the jeep and started to the tour.

Tours are for 7 people. At first you’re visiting train cemetery. After taking photos with trains, we went to a small village. It is a really small village and was just made to sell local things to the tourists. After this village, we arrived to salt flat.

We had lunch in the salt hotel, when we arrived. Near the hotel, there is place of flags. I had heard there is Turkish flag here. But I couldn’t find it when I arrived. While I was leaving the country, my sister had given me our flag if I needed it. I thought I wouldn’t need it. This flag is in Bolivia right now. Ôś║

I had said one of the lunches would be vegeterian. But of course they forgot it. I waited for half an hour to find me something to eat. Anyway after eating, we went deep into the salt flat. When I was there, it was rainig. So the salt flat was full of water. The area of salt flat is huge. So if you reach to the middle, you only see white salt. And if there is water, it makes mirror effect. And you feel like you’re in the sky with clouds. It is like you die and go to the heaven!

After taking photos, we went back to the salt hotel. Actually we wanted to go back to Uyuni. Because it was about to rain. But there was a Israili couple in the tour. They insisted to wait for the sunset. We tried to explain they wouldn’t see anything because of the clouds. But they wanted to wait. So waited for nothing. We didn’t see anything and went back to Uyuni.

Before going to the tour, I had akready prepared my backpack and left to the office of tour. When we were back, we had dinner and I took my backpack and got in the bus for La Paz. The bus was going to arrive at 05:00 am. I generally plan everything. But this time I listened my friends and decided to find a hostel when I arrive to La Paz. Such an idiot decision I have ever made!

1 Comment

  1. Hazal reyiz parti kur oy verelim ­čśé

    ┼×aka bir tarafa helal olsun yaa ├žok mutlu ettin beni ┼čanl─▒ T├╝rk bayra─č─▒m─▒z─▒ d├╝nyan─▒n ├Âb├╝r ucunda da dalgaland─▒rd─▒n ­čĹĆ­čĹĆ­čśŐ

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