Chilean Dream: Santiago

For english, please look below! ­čĹç­čĆ╗

Santiago… Nereden ba┼člasam bilemiyorum. ─░yi k├Ât├╝ tam bir ay─▒m─▒ bu ┼čehirde ge├žirdim. Ba┼č─▒ndan sonuna inan─▒lmaz g├╝zel bir deneyimdi. ┼×ilililere sorarsan─▒z hepsi Santiago’da ├žok insan oldu─čundan yak─▒n─▒r, kimsenin kimseye selam vermedi─činden. Ama t├╝m b├╝y├╝k ┼čehirlerin ka├ž─▒n─▒lmaz sonudur bu. Bense ┼čehir insan─▒ oldu─čumdan Santiago’yu ayr─▒ sevdim. ─░ki g├╝n sonra ├ž├Âle kamp kurmaya gidece─čim. Da─č bay─▒r da seviyorum ama m├╝zenin, tiyatronun olmad─▒─č─▒ yerde ya┼čayam─▒yorum.

Santiago’ya ayak bas─▒┼č─▒m─▒n ilk g├╝n├╝ Meze Restoran’a g├Âr├╝┼čmeye gittim. ├çocukluk arkada┼č─▒m burada ya┼čad─▒─č─▒ i├žin ben daha ┼čehre gelmeden k─▒sa d├Ânemlik burada ├žal─▒┼čmama arac─▒ olmu┼čtu. Meze Restoran, iki bu├žuk senedir Manuel Montt’ta t├╝rk yemekleri servis ediyor. H├╝nkar Be─čendi’den tutun da Adana Kebap’a kadar her ┼čey var. Hem Santiago’lulara kendini sevdirmi┼č hem burada ya┼čayan t├╝rklerin u─črak yeri olmay─▒ ba┼čarm─▒┼č. O y├╝zden burada ya┼čayan t├╝rklerin ├žo─ču restoran sayesinde birbirini tan─▒yor.

G├Âr├╝┼čmemizden iki g├╝n sonra ├žal─▒┼čmaya ba┼člayarak h─▒zl─▒ bir tempoya girdim. Restoranda ├žal─▒┼čm─▒┼č olanlar beni anlayacakt─▒r. Garsonluk yapmak d├╝nyan─▒n en garip i┼či. Her g├╝n denk geldi─činiz garip insanlar, ya┼čanan diyaloglar ile ayr─▒ bir kitap yaz─▒l─▒r.

Restoranda ├žal─▒┼čan tek t├╝rk garson olarak bir ay boyunca olduk├ža ilgi ├žektim. Hem m├╝┼čteriler ├Ânerilerime daha da ilgi g├Âsteriyordu hem de ├╝lkemle ilgili bir s├╝r├╝ soru al─▒yordum. ┼×ilililerin hepsi ├žok canayak─▒n yabanc─▒lara kar┼č─▒. Yine t├╝rk dizilerinin a┼č─▒r─▒ muhabbeti d├Ând├╝. S├╝rekli dizilerle ilgili soru cevaplamak zorunda kald─▒m. Bir keresinde t├╝rk├že ├Â─črenmeye ├žal─▒┼čan bir ┼×ilili k─▒zla muhabbet ettim, ├žay ikram ettim. Derken k─▒z yehova ┼čahitlerinden ├ž─▒kt─▒. Giderken bana bunu hediye etti. Okey ­čśĺ

Do─čum g├╝n├╝mde restoran─▒n ortas─▒nda roman havas─▒ oynad─▒m. 50 ┼×ililinin hep bir a─č─▒zdan do─čum g├╝n├╝m├╝ kutlamas─▒n─▒ dinledim. Her g├╝n├╝m deli dolu, acayip hikayelerle dolu ge├žti. Para kazanman─▒n yan─▒nda inan─▒lmaz ve unutamayaca─č─▒m deneyimler elde ettim.

Ama haftada alt─▒ g├╝n uzun saatler ├žal─▒┼čt─▒─č─▒m i├žin Santiago’yu uzun bir s├╝re gezemedim. Blo─ču bo┼člamam─▒n sebebi de buydu asl─▒nda. Hi├žbir ┼čeye vakit bulamad─▒m. Eve geldi─čimde ya ├žok yorgundum ya da saat ge├ž oldu─ču i├žin direkt uyuyordum. Haftada bir g├╝n iznimde de ev arkada┼člar─▒m ile d─▒┼čar─▒ ├ž─▒kt─▒─č─▒m─▒z i├žin t├╝m haftam bloke oluyordu. Son haftamda ┼čehri tan─▒mak i├žin ak┼čam vardiyas─▒nda ├žal─▒┼čmay─▒ talep ettim. B├Âylece birazdan anlataca─č─▒m yerleri gezme f─▒rsat─▒m oldu.

┼×ili deyince benim akl─▒ma direkt Pablo Neruda geliyor. D├Ârt sene ispanyol filolojisi okuyunca akl─▒na ba┼čka bir ┼čey gelmezdi insan─▒n zaten. Bilmeyenler i├žin Pablo Neruda hem siyasette aktif rol alarak ┼×ili’ye katk─▒da bulunmu┼č hem de Nobel ├Âd├╝l├╝ alm─▒┼č ┼×ilili bir ┼čair. Pablo Neruda’n─▒n ┼×ili’de ├╝├ž tane evi bulunuyor. Biri Santiago’da, biri Vapara├şso’da, di─čeri de Isla Negra’da. Ben iki tanesini ziyaret etme imkan─▒ buldum. Santiago’daki evi La Chascona. Neruda, bu evin yap─▒m─▒na o zamanki gizli sevgilisi Matilde Urrutia i├žin ba┼čl─▒yor. ├ť├ž evinde de g├Ârebilece─činiz gibi bu evde de ├Ân plana ├ž─▒kan deniz sevgisi. Neruda tam bir deniz a┼č─▒─č─▒ oldu─ču i├žin t├╝m evlerini gemiyi an─▒msatacak mimaride planl─▒yor ve i├žini deniz objeleriyle dolduruyor. Evi gezerken “vay be, ben de burada ya┼časam efsane ┼čiir yazard─▒m” diyorsunuz. La Chascona, Bella Vista’da buluyor. Giri┼č ├╝creti ise 6000 ┼×ili Pesosu. Maalesef pek ucuz de─čil. Ama de─čer mi? De─čer.

Santiago’nun di─čer bir ├Ânemli k├╝lt├╝r merkezi ise ad─▒n─▒ bir di─čer Nobel ├Âd├╝ll├╝ ┼čairi Gabriela Mistral’dan al─▒yor. Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral, hem bir├žok sanatsal aktivitelere ev sahipli─či yap─▒yor hem de d├Ânemlik sergileri i├žinde bar─▒nd─▒r─▒yor. Alan olarak ├žok b├╝y├╝k olan k├╝lt├╝r merkezine giri┼č ├╝cretsiz. Di─čer yandan gen├žlerin dans, akrobasi gibi antremanlar─▒ i├žin kullanabilecekleri alanlar─▒ mevcut. Ben ziyaret etti─čimde de dans eden bir s├╝r├╝ gen├ž vard─▒. Santiago’da o g├╝n yapacak hi├žbir i┼činiz bile olmasa kitab─▒n─▒z─▒ al─▒p kuytu bir k├Â┼česine kurulabilirsiniz. Herkese a├ž─▒k ├╝cretsiz interneti de mevcut, k─▒ps k─▒ps ­čĄŚ

Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral’in Giri┼či
─░skandinav ─░├ž Mimarisi ─░le ─░lgili Sergiden
Geleneksel Latin Amerika Sanatlar─▒ Sergisinden

Santiago’nun en ├Ânemli simgesi ise iki tepesi. Birisi Cerro Santa Luc├şa, di─čeri ise Cerro San Cristobal. Cerro Santa Luc├şa, ayn─▒ ad─▒ ta┼č─▒yan metro dura─č─▒n─▒n yan─▒nda. ─░├žerisi heykellerle bezenmi┼č b├╝y├╝k bir park halinde. ─░├žerisini gezmek yakla┼č─▒k bir saatinizi al─▒yor. ┼×ehrin tam g├Âbe─činde olmas─▒na ra─čmen i├žeri ad─▒m att─▒─č─▒n─▒z an bir sessizlik ba┼čl─▒yor. ┼×ehrin kalabal─▒─č─▒ndan ka├žmak i├žin birebir.

Di─čer tepesi San Cristobal ise ┼čehrin simgesi b├╝y├╝k Meryem Ana heykeline ev sahipli─či yap─▒yor. Tepeye ├ž─▒kmasan─▒z da bu heykeli ┼čehrin her yerinden g├Ârebiliyorsunuz. Cerro San Cristobal’e ├ž─▒kmak i├žin bir├žok yol var. ─░sterseniz teleferikle, isterseniz bisikletle, isterseniz y├╝r├╝yerek ├ž─▒kabilirsiniz. Tepeye ├ž─▒kmak i├žin birka├ž yol var. Zorluk seviyeleri de─či┼čiyor sadece. Kimisi daha dik, kimisi daha uzun ama daha rahat yol. Ayr─▒ca yol ├╝st├╝nde de durup piknik yapabilece─činiz mesire yerleri bulunuyor. Biz teleferikle inip ├ž─▒kt─▒k. ├ç├╝nk├╝ ├Â─člen i┼če gitmem gerekiyordu. Sadece sabahtan u─črayabildim. Zirvede durup dinlenebilece─činiz kafe ve restoranlar da var.


┼×ili’de en yayg─▒n fast food sandvi├ž├žiler. Her ad─▒mda sandvi├ž yapan bir yer var. Ama ├Âyle akl─▒n─▒za d├╝z sandvi├ž gelmesin. Burada olay─▒ a┼čm─▒┼člar. Her porsiyon b├╝y├╝k boy. Bir hamburger istiyorsunuz iki elinizle zor tutup yiyiyorsunuz. Ayr─▒ca her ┼čeyin i├žinde avokado var. Resmen mutluluktan ├Âliciim. Buran─▒n domatesi gibi bir ┼čey. Yemeyeni d├Âv├╝yorlar. Di─čer yayg─▒n olay ise su┼čiciler. Neden bilmiyorum ama ├že┼čit ├že┼čit su┼či yapan binlerce restoran var. Fiyat olarak da uygunlar. Yani bizde su┼či l├╝kst├╝r. Burada sandvi├ž de yesen ayn─▒ fiyat, su┼či de. Ben zaten hem su┼či hem de avokado manya─č─▒ oldu─čum i├žin a┼č─▒r─▒lar a┼č─▒r─▒s─▒ mutluydum burada. Arjantin’de peynirli empanada ve pizza yemekten i├žim kurumu┼čtu.

Bunun d─▒┼č─▒nda iki g├╝n i├žimdeki Vedat Mil├Âr’e izin verdim ve de─či┼čik yemek aray─▒┼č─▒na ├ž─▒kt─▒m ve harika iki yer ke┼čfettim. Yolu d├╝┼čen olursa diye de sizinle payla┼čmak istiyorum.

Birisi hint yemekleri yapan New Horizon. Ben buray─▒ tesad├╝fen TripAdvisor’da bulmu┼čtum. Kesin vejerteryan yemekleri vard─▒r diye gittim. Kap─▒s─▒nda ay─▒ gibi s─▒ra vard─▒. Dedim noluyoruz ya? Demek ki cidden g├╝zel diye 15 dakika s─▒ra bekledim. ├ľ─člen giderseniz g├╝nl├╝k men├╝leri bulunuyor. Ana yemek, pilav ve salata bulunuyor men├╝de. Tereya─čl─▒ lava┼č ekme─čine benzer bir ekmekle geliyor hepsi. Yemek i├žin beklenir mi demeyin. Ger├žekten inan─▒lmaz g├╝zeldi. ─░├žecek de dahil hepsine 4000 ┼×ili Pesosu ├Âdedim. Yazarken tekrar can─▒m ├žekti ahaha ­čÖâ

Di─čer Vedat Mil├Âr maceramda ise her ┼čeyin do─čal ve sebzeden yap─▒ld─▒─č─▒ bir restoran ke┼čfettim. ─░├žeride ete dair bir ┼čey yok ama yine restoran full ├žekiyordu. Restoran─▒n ad─▒ El Naturista. Her vejeteryan─▒m dedi─čimde ay sen ne yiyorsun o zaman, a├ž kalm─▒yor musun diyenlerin surat─▒na buran─▒n men├╝s├╝n├╝ ├žarpmak istiyorum. S─▒f─▒r et koyarak d├╝nyan─▒n en leziz yemeklerini yapan bir yer. Ayr─▒ca men├╝s├╝ de olduk├ža geni┼č. Kocaman tabak ana yemek yedikten sonra, ├╝st├╝ne meyve salatas─▒ yedim. En sonunda yerimden kalkam─▒yordum. ┼×u bo─čaz─▒m─▒ durduram─▒yorum ben ya. ­čśö Bir de taze s─▒k─▒lm─▒┼č bir s├╝r├╝ meyve ├že┼čitleri var. Giderseniz mutlaka deneyin.

Son olarak gece hayat─▒. Santiago’nun barlar soka─č─▒ Bella Vista. Hem barlara hem de gece kul├╝plerine burada rastlayabilirsiniz. Ama onun d─▒┼č─▒nda her semtinde g├╝zel mekanlar─▒ mevcut. Benim arkada┼člar─▒m─▒n bir k─▒sm─▒ DJ oldu─ču i├žin her hafta sonu onlar─▒n partilerine gittim. Dolay─▒s─▒yla mekan bilmiyorum. Ama Bella Vista’ya giderseniz mekan bulamaman─▒z imkans─▒z.

Bir├žok gezgin Santiago’da bir ┼čey yok, ben s─▒k─▒ld─▒m diyecektir. Ama bir ┼čehrin g├╝zelli─či sizin deneyiminizle do─čru orant─▒l─▒. Belki gidip bir hostelde kalsan─▒z be─čenmezsiniz ┼čehri. Di─čer ┼čehirlerden hi├žbir fark─▒ yok belki. Hatta Santiago’yu yapay bile bulursunuz. Sa─čda soldaki b├╝y├╝k amerikanvari reklamlar─▒ sizi iter. Gen├žlerin hepsinde d├Âvme, rap├ži ┼čapkalar─▒ var diye d├╝┼č├╝n├╝rs├╝n├╝z. Tarzlar─▒ garip gelir. Ama ├Âyle g├╝nler ya┼čars─▒n─▒z ki oras─▒ kalbinizde ├Âzel bir yer edinir. Santiago da benim i├žin ├Âyle. ├ço─ču sevmese de ben kalbimin bir k─▒sm─▒n─▒ burada b─▒rakarak ayr─▒ld─▒m ve her zaman da g├╝zel hat─▒rlayaca─č─▒m sabahlar─▒ s─▒cak geceleri so─čuk Santiago’mu.

Santiago… I don’t know where I can start to talk about. I have lived there for a month! It was a totally wonderful experience for me. If you ask about Santiago to Chilean people, they will probably tell you it’s huge, nobody looks your face, there are a lot of people etc. But these are common problems of big cities. As I am a city person, I really love Santiago. After two days, I am going to camp in Atacama Desert. I love to be in nature. But I cannot live in a place without theatre, museums or concerts.

As soon as I arrived to Santiago, I went to Meze Restaurant to talk with the owner. Because my old friend lives there, he arranged me a job in this turkish restaurant before I arrived. Meze Restaurant serves turkish cuisine for 2 and half year in Manuel Montt Street. You can taste a lot of traditional turkish food here like Adana Kebap, H├╝nkar Be─čendi. And it is also a meeting place for turkish people living in Santiago. Because of that, all chilean-turkish people know each other.

After I met the owner, I started to work in the restaurant as a waitress. If you have experience as a waiter, you’ll understand me. Being a waiter is one of the most interesting jobs. Everyday meeting with weird people, or funny conversations with the guests… I can write a book just with my one month experience. As the only turkish waitress in the restaurant, the guests got interested in me always. They asked me a lot of questions about my culture. Sometimes we talked about the politics, or turkish soap operas. Once a chilean girl came to the restaurant and said she tries to learn turkish. She drank a cup of turkish tea. Later she gifted me a Jehovah’s Witnesses’ book. I was like OKEY! ­čśĺ
On my birthday, I danced with traditional turkish music at the restaurant. I watched that 50 chilean was celebrating my birthday by singing. Everyday had a different story, weird moments. I gained so many experiences apart from earning money.

But I was working 6 days a week and too many hours. So I couldn’t walk around in the city till my last week. That’s why I couldn’t write anything on my blog. I was coming to home very late or very tired to do anything. I had just one offday. On these days, I was going out with my flatmates. So I asked to work on night shift for my last week. And I could walk around in the city in my last week.

When I think about Chile, I think about Pablo Neruda directly. After studying Spanish Literature for 4 years, this is so normal. For dummies, Pablo Neruda was poet who won Nobel Prize and was also very active in Chilean politics. Pablo Neruda had 3 houses in Chile. One is in Santiago. The other one is in Valparaiso. And the last one is in Isla Negra. I had chance to visit two of them. His house in Santiago is called La Choscana. He built this house for his secret lover, Matilde Urrutia. Pablo Neruda was a real lover of sea. Because of that, his three houses were designed as ship and decorated with objects related to sea. While visiting the house, I thought that if I lived that house, I could write perfect poems. La Choscana is in Bella Vista and the enterance fee is 6000 CLP. It is not so cheap. But it’s totally worth it.

The other important culture center of Santiago has the name of another Nobel prized poet, Gabriela Mistral. Centro Cultural Gabriela Mistral hosts many of art activities and temporal exhibitions. It is a huge building and the enterance is free. Also it has saloons of dance for the young people. When I was there, there were a lot of young people practicing. Even if you cannot find anything to do in Santiago, you can take your book and go there for peaceful afternoon. And it has free wifi for the visitors. ­čśë

The other important symbols of Santiago are its two hills: Cerro Santa Luc├şa and Cerro San Cristobal. Santa Luc├şa is neat the metro station which has the same name as the hill. This hill is a huge park with a lot of artworks. It takes one hour to walk around in the park. As soon as you step inside, you leave the noisy city behind and hear the birds tweeting.


The other important hill San Cristobal can be see from the city easily thanks to its huge Santa Maria statue. There are a lot of options to climb the hill. You can take a cable car which I did this one as I didn’t have so many time to climb it. You can climb on bike or by walking. While climbing, you can see a lot of picnic areas which is a good option to relax for local people. On the other hand, there are a lot of places to eat or drink something on the top.


The most common fast food of Chile is sandwich. There are a lot of diners in Santiago and they are making huge sandwiches with a reasonable price. And they use avokado for everything which makes me very very happy. And I don’t why. But there are a lot of sushi restaurants in Chile and the prices are same as sandwiches. As a vegeterian who consumes sea food sometimes, I could only eat empanadas in Argentina. But I gained some kilos in Chile ahaha ­čśŐ

Apart from that, I listened my inner gourmet and I went out to discover new tastes in Santiago. I found 2 amazing place. I would like to share with you. It can be helpful if someone comes to Santiago, too.

One of them is New Horizon which makes indian food. I found this place on TripAdvisor. But when I arrived, there was a long line. I waited for a while to hunt a table. For lunch, they have daily menu. It contains mail meal, rice, bread and salad. I paid 4000 CLP including the drink. It was totally worth to wait!

On my other gourmet adventure, I found a vegeterian friendly place where the all food made with vegetable. I was about to ask a copy of their menu to show people who ask me “Oh are you vegeterian? Aren’t you dying by hunger? What do you eat?” The name of restaurant is El Naturalista. They have a lot of options which makes you happy even if you’re a meat lover. After eating a huge meal, I ordered fruit salad, too. They have fresh juices as well. After eating so much, it was really hard to get up from table. I just have to control myself! ­čśé

The last thing is night life of Santiago. Actually I don’t any places in Santiago for that. Because some of my friends were DJs. So every weekend, I went to their parties. But Bella Vista is the neighborhood of pubs and clubs. If you go there, you can find something for sure.

If you ask the other travelers, they will tell you there is nothing to see in Santiago. But the beauty of a place depends on your experiences. If you stay in a hostel there, maybe you won’t like Santiago. You’ll say there are a lot of people there. There is no difference between Santiago and the other big cities. Maybe you can find it more artificial because of its huge billboards. You can find weird the young people’s styles. But if you live so special experiences there, you’ll fall in love with Santiago. So Santiago is like that for me. I had so many beautiful memories there and it takes a special part in my heart. I will always remember it perfect, my lovely Santiago.

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