What I Expected From San Telmo, What I Found In La Boca?

T├╝rk├že i├žin a┼ča─č─▒ devam ediniz! Ôś║´ŞĆ

Once I mention Buenos Aires, you probably think about the colorful houses and tango shows. Yeah, it is like that. But it has another face they don’t show you. So I want to share my experiences about it.

First, I want to talk about a little about economy. Argentinians that I talk with told me after the elections, the country became more expensive. I can say it is almost same as Istanbul. But I learnt it was a cheaper country before. On the other hand, they told me it’s hard to find job nowadays for young people.

On Monday, I took metro (here it’s called subte) to go to a free yoga class which I found it on Couchsurfing. I took off in Plaza de Mayo and had to pass it to go to the park where the yoga class will be. The neighborhood of the park where we met is a modern side of the city. There are a lot of skyscrapers, offices and residances for the rich people.

Puerto Madero

Meanwhile in Plaza de Mayo, there was a big prostest. There were citizens and unions as well. It was spread over a large area as you can see on the photos.

Plaza de Mayo

The first thing that caught my attention is the police wasn’t attacking people. (Well, hello! I am from Istanbul, I can get surprised by this easily Ôś║´ŞĆ). They had built barricades and were waiting outside of it, altough there were comics against to president in the park. Later I learnt from my host, the people were generally professors from universities. They were protesting that they cannot get a promotion of salary for a while. The protest must have lasted a while. Because the exams of my host had been postponed because of it.

After the day, I wanted to visit San Telmo and La Boca. But I didn’t want to go there alone. So I found myself a company from Couchsurfing Hangout. She was from the Basque Country, came here to study and work. Actually there are a lot of people coming from Europe and settled here.

Again we met in Plaza de Mayo and decided to walk to San Telmo. I heard that San Telmo is a modern neighborhood of Buenos Aires. But when we arrived there, it didn’t seem to me as a special place. It is similar to Palermo. Even it was like it has fewer bars and restaurants in there. I had found La Plaza Armenia more colorful. When I said to my host, he said it’s more fun at nights. Because there are a lot of bars and restaurants that you can listen music etc. Well, it was a bad timing, I guess ­čśü

On the way of La Boca

We decided to walk to La Boca from San Telmo as well. Okey, they are not close to each other. But we are tourists, right? So we have to do silly things! In fact, La Boca is not a safe place to walk around. But I guess I was brave. Because I am a turkish girl and have experience. Well, I don’t know why my companion was brave though Ôś║´ŞĆ

I am exaggerating. It is not that bad. You just have to keep eyes on your cell phone and your bag. And you shouldn’t listen to the guy who is telling you some stuff on the streets. I just feel a little luckier as a turkish girl. Because my hometown is not as safe as Norway ­čśî

While walking to La Boca, we passed the stadium of Boca Juniors. It is an important team of Buenos Aires. It represents the sub class. The other important team is River Plate. Of course, they are worst enemies!

If you keep walking, you’ll enter to the neighborhood. You can easily see here the people of La Boca are quite poor. The houses are tumbledown. I grabbed my bag firmly whilst passing through here.

La Boca

Some of the houses were really colorful in the neighborhood. They hang their cloths at the street. There were a lot of children outside playing football. Also you can see Messi and Maradona on the walls. They really care about their football players. Of course, they love Che Guevara also.

Caminito

After fearful moments, we arrived to Caminito, the famous street of La Boca. It is a little street as you can understand on its name (El caminito means Little Street). On El Caminito, there are a lot of colorful houses and restaurants which they have tango show for their clients. It’s just a touristic and artificial street made for tourists apart from the original La Boca. Of course, it must be visited. But if you’re brave enough to go into the neighborhood, you’ll see the real La Boca. Otherwise you can just take photos here which will get lots of likes on Instagram.

The Wax Museum in La Boca

I want to talk about the history of La Boca briefly. La Boca is where the poor immigrant dock workers used to live with many of its early settlers being from the Italian city of Genoa, way back in the 1800ÔÇÖs. They painted those houses with cast-away leftover paint. But they never had enough paint of the same color to cover an entire house, so the houses became a colorful patchwork. So it is not an authentic tradition. The colorful houses have a little sad history.

After we took some fancy photos here, we went to a restaurant to eat. After walking so far, we got so hungry and tired. It’s really hard to find something to eat for me here. They are using meat a lot in their meals. If I can find somewhere who make pizza or empanadas with cheese, I am making this face to them: ­čśŹ

After we ate, we took bus to go back. Because millions of Argentinian told me not to stay in La Boca till the night as a female.

Tomorrow I am going to Uruguay. So I have to prepare my backpack and say goodbye to Buenos Aires with a glass of wine ­čŹĚ

La Boca’n─▒n renkli evleri

Buenos Aires deyince akl─▒n─▒za ilk gelen muhtemelen renkli evleri ve tango g├Âsterileri. Evet, durum biraz ├Âyle diyebiliriz ama size g├Âsterilmeyen ba┼čka bir y├╝z├╝ de var. Me┼čhur olmayan ama bana g├Âre daha ├Ânemli olan bu y├╝z├╝n├╝ de sizinle payla┼čmak istiyorum.

├ľncelikle biraz ekonomik durumdan bahsedece─čim. Konu┼čtu─čum Arjantinli’lerin bir ├žo─ču de─či┼čen h├╝k├╝met y├╝z├╝nden ├╝lkenin daha da pahal─▒ bir yer oldu─čuna de─čindiler. Fiyatlar─▒ ─░stanbul’la k─▒yaslad─▒─č─▒mda hemen hemen ayn─▒ diyebilirim. Ama ├Â─črendi─čime g├Âre buras─▒ ├Ânceden ├žok daha ucuz bir ├╝lkeymi┼č. Di─čer yandan i┼č bulman─▒n her ge├žen g├╝n daha da zorla┼čt─▒─č─▒n─▒ ilettiler.

Pazartesi g├╝n├╝ Couchsurfing’ten buldu─čum Yoga dersi etkinli─čine gitmek i├žin metroya (metroya subte diyorlar) bindim ve me┼čhur Plaza de Mayo‘da inerek etkinli─čin yap─▒laca─č─▒ parka ilerledim. Yoga dersinin oldu─ču park, Buenos Aires’in g├Âkdelenlerinin, ofislerin ve rezidanslar─▒n bulundu─ču bir b├Âlgedeydi.

Yoga dersimin oldu─ču haval─▒ semt: Puerto Madero

Plaza de Mayo’da ise olduk├ža b├╝y├╝k bir protesto vard─▒. Hem bireysel olarak gelen hem de sendikalar─▒n geldi─či b├╝y├╝k bir protestoydu bu. Foto─čraflarda g├Ârd├╝─č├╝n├╝z ├╝zere Gezi Park─▒ kadar bir alana yay─▒lm─▒┼člard─▒.

“Halka yap─▒lanlar yeter! Zenginlere daha ├žok vergi. Ger├žek i┼č istiyoruz!”

─░lgimi ├žeken ilk ┼čey polislerin vatanda┼člara sald─▒rmamas─▒, aksine etraflar─▒nda barikat olu┼čturarak bu barikat─▒n d─▒┼č─▒nda bekliyor olmalar─▒yd─▒. Ayr─▒ca park─▒n i├žinde Ba┼čbakana y├Ânelik ├žizimlerin ve yaz─▒lar─▒n da oldu─čunu belirtmek isterim. Bir kez daha protesto hakk─▒n─▒ kullanabilen bu insanlar ad─▒na sevindim. Daha sonra ev sahibimden ├Â─črendi─čim ├╝zere protestoya gidenlerin bir ├žo─ču ├╝niversite hocalar─▒ym─▒┼č. Kendilerine birka├ž senedir maa┼č zamm─▒ yap─▒lmad─▒─č─▒ i├žin sokaklardalar. Anla┼č─▒lan protesto birka├ž g├╝nd├╝r de devam ediyor. ├ç├╝nk├╝ ├╝niversitede okuyan ev sahibimin s─▒navlar─▒ protesto y├╝z├╝nden ertelenmi┼č.

Polisin kurup arkas─▒nda bekledi─či barikatlar

┬áErtesi g├╝n San Telmo ve La Boca b├Âlgesini ziyaret etmek istedim. Tek ba┼č─▒ma gitmek istemedi─čim i├žin Couchsurfing’in Hangout ├Âzelli─činden bir gezgin ile tan─▒┼čt─▒m ve onunla gitmeye karar verdik. Kendisi ─░spanya’n─▒n Bask b├Âlgesinden. Buraya okumaya ve ├žal─▒┼čmaya gelmi┼č. ─░lgin├ž bir ┼čekilde Arjantin’de ya┼čayan bir s├╝r├╝ Avrupal─▒ var Ôś║´ŞĆ

San Telmo yolunda

┬áYine Plaza de Mayo’da bulu┼čup San Telmo’ya y├╝r├╝meye karar verdik. San Telmo’nun ┼čehrin daha modern y├╝z├╝ oldu─čunu duymu┼čtum. Ama ne var ki gitti─čimizde ekstradan bir ├Âzelli─či olan bir yermi┼č gibi gelmedi bana. Palermo nas─▒lsa buras─▒ da ├Âyle. Hatta daha az bar─▒n oldu─čunu d├╝┼č├╝nd├╝m. La Plaza Armenia’n─▒n oldu─ču b├Âlge bana daha canl─▒ gelmi┼čti. Biraz hayal k─▒r─▒kl─▒─č─▒na u─črad─▒m do─črusu. Daha sonra ev sahibime sordu─čumda San Telmo’nun ak┼čamlar─▒ ├žok renkli oldu─čunu s├Âyledi. Yanl─▒┼č zamanlamadan kaybettik san─▒r─▒m ­čśü

San Telmo’dan La Boca’ya y├╝r├╝meye karar verdik. Asl─▒nda mesafe olarak yak─▒n say─▒lmaz. Ayr─▒ca y├╝r├╝d├╝─č├╝n├╝z b├Âlge kenar mahalle oldu─ču i├žin pek g├╝venli de─čil. Ama ger├žek bir turist olarak neden y├╝r├╝meyelim ki diye d├╝┼č├╝nd├╝k. Ben “Kapal─▒├žar┼č─▒ ├žocu─čuyum bana bir ┼čey olmaz” diye gaza gelmi┼č olabilirim. Bask k─▒z neyine g├╝vendi bilmiyorum ama ­čśü

┼×aka bir yana a┼č─▒r─▒ k├Ât├╝ bir muhit de─čil ama yine de telefonunuzu saklay─▒p s─▒rt ├žantan─▒z─▒ ├Ân├╝n├╝ze alarak y├╝r├╝meniz daha iyi olur. Bir de size laf atan erkeklere kulak asmazsan─▒z s─▒k─▒nt─▒ yok. Bence bir T├╝rk olarak b├Âyle yerlerde bir Norve├žliye g├Âre 1 – 0 ├Ândeyiz.

La Boca’ya do─čru y├╝r├╝rken Boca Juniors‘─▒n stadyumunun ├Ân├╝nden ge├žtik. Buenos Aires’in ├Ânemli tak─▒mlar─▒ndan biri Boca Juniors. Halk─▒n daha alt kesimini temsil ediyorlar. Buenos Aires’in di─čer tak─▒m─▒ River Plate ile de az─▒l─▒ rakipler. Bizim Galatasaray Fenerbah├že ├žeki┼čmesi gibi.

Boca Juniors’─▒n stadyumu, nam-─▒ di─čer La Bombonera

Stadyumdan devam etti─činizde yava┼č yava┼č semte girmi┼č oluyorsunuz. Biz turistik alana ge├žene kadar semti boydan boya ge├žmi┼č olduk. Mahallenin delikanl─▒lar─▒ sa─č olsun yine laf atarak bizi kar┼č─▒lad─▒. Semtin evlerinin bir├žo─ču y─▒k─▒k d├Âk├╝k. Halk─▒n olduk├ža fakir oldu─čunu g├Ârebilirsiniz burada. Hatta kendinizi bir an Sulukule’de y├╝r├╝yor gibi hissedebilirsiniz. Buralardan ge├žerken ├žantama s─▒k─▒ s─▒k─▒ sar─▒ld─▒m.

La Boca’y─▒ dola┼čan cesur k─▒zlar Ôťî´ŞĆ

Burada baz─▒ evler ger├žekten rengarenk boyal─▒. ├çama┼č─▒rlar sokak aralar─▒na as─▒lm─▒┼č. Yollar futbol oynayan ├žocuklarla dolu. Ayr─▒ca duvarlarda s├╝rekli Maradona ve Messi’nin resimlerini g├Âr├╝yorsunuz. Futbola a┼č─▒r─▒ ba─čl─▒lar ve oyuncular─▒yla gurur duyuyorlar. Tabii ki de Che’yi de burada a┼č─▒r─▒ sahipleniyorlar.

Che ÔŁĄ´ŞĆ Ben (Sa─čdaki ben)

Korku dolu anlardan sonra Caminito’ya yani La Boca’n─▒n turistik soka─č─▒na ├ž─▒kt─▒k. Minicik bir sokak Caminito. Zaten t├╝rk├žeye ├ževirisi de sokakc─▒k demek. Yan yana s─▒ral─▒ restoranlar─▒ var ve her restoranda m├╝┼čterileri i├žin tango g├Âsterileri var. La Boca’n─▒n ├Âz├╝nden ├žok ayr─▒, sadece turistler i├žin yap─▒lm─▒┼č yapay bir yer. Gidip g├Âr├╝lmesi gerek tabii ki de. Ama semtte biraz dola┼čmaya cesaret ederseniz ger├žek La Boca’y─▒ g├Ârm├╝┼č olursunuz. Tabii bir de g├╝zel Instagram foto─čraflar─▒ i├žin harika bir yer Caminito.

Caminito’nun giri┼či

Sizi s─▒kmadan k─▒saca renkli evlerin tarihini anlatmak isterim. Buenos Aires, 1800’l├╝ y─▒llarda ─░talya’n─▒n Cenova ┼čehrinden olduk├ža g├Â├ž al─▒yor ve gelenler La Boca’ya yerle┼čiyor. Gelen g├Â├žmenlerin ├žo─ču da gemi yap─▒m─▒nda ├žal─▒┼čmakta. ├çok fakir olduklar─▒ndan dolay─▒ kendilerine ev yapmak i├žin malzeme alam─▒yorlar ve tersanede artan gemi yap─▒m─▒ malzemeleri ile ev yap─▒yorlar. Evleri boyamak i├žin de yine artan gemi boyalar─▒n─▒ kullan─▒yorlar. Ne var ki art─▒k boyalar t├╝m evi boyamaya yetmiyor. Bu y├╝zden farkl─▒ renkleri kullanarak evlerini boyamak zorunda kal─▒yorlar. B├Âylece gelenekselle┼čen La Boca’n─▒n evleri ortaya ├ž─▒k─▒yor. Yani can─▒m turistlerin d├╝┼č├╝nd├╝─č├╝ gibi otantiklikten de─čil fakirlikten ├ž─▒kan bir gelenek.

Biz de haval─▒ foto─čraflar ├žekildikten sonra biraz oturup yemek yedik. O kadar yol y├╝r├╝d├╝kten sonra epey ac─▒k─▒p yorulmu┼čtuk. Burada yemek bulurken ├žok zorlan─▒yorum. ├ç├╝nk├╝ her ┼čeyin i├žinde et var. Pizza veya peynirli empanada yapan yer bulursam g├Âzlerinden kalpler ├ž─▒k─▒yor ­čśŹ

Ak┼čam olmaya ba┼člad─▒─č─▒ ve y├╝z tane Arjantinli taraf─▒ndan bana “Sak─▒n k─▒z ba┼č─▒na geceye kalma orada” dendi─či i├žin evlerimize de otob├╝slere binerek geri d├Ând├╝k.

Yar─▒n Uruguay’a do─čru yol al─▒yorum. Bu y├╝zden ├žanta haz─▒rl─▒─č─▒ma ba┼člad─▒m. Ama ├Âncesinde La Boca yaz─▒m─▒ hemen sizinle payla┼čmak istedim. Biraz haz─▒rl─▒ks─▒z yakaland─▒m ama neyse ki blo─čumu bir kurdele ile s├╝sleyebildim ­čÄÇ

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